Wild miso soup is a warming, nourishing bowlful, speaking of winter but spreading rumours of the spring to come. Use whatever wild greens you can find (be 100% sure of identity) in the proportions that please your palate

Mushroom season is a fickle mistress. There are, of course, some edible fungi growing throughout the year – St.George’s in spring, velvet shanks in the depths of winter – but autumn is the main event, when the majority, and the finest, of culinary mushrooms pop up through the cooling earth.